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790 crosses a tidal flat. An hour before high tide, water rushes through the narrows under the bridge to fill the basin, kayakers with it. 36 n The Quoddy Shore Diving Deer Island and Campobello offer outstanding diving, with 300-foot underwater cliffs, shipwrecks and a variety of sea life. ca/sparky. Groups of five or six divers will explore an area rich in sea life and possibilities for underwater photography. A two-tank dive, about three hours, is $40. Tank and weight belt rentals are available.

George peninsula, Deer Island and a string of islets. While small in comparison to the giant Bay of Fundy, it holds a lot of water, much of which rushes in and out with the twice-daily Fundy tides. The shore is steep in places, with long narrow channels and dozens of small islands, as well as sand bars which appear and disappear with the tides. It is, as you might guess, a wonderland of sea adventures. Although this region looks small on a map, it has an inordinate amount of coastline formed by a lot of smaller bays and inlets, with jutting peninsulas and abundant islands.

Homemade, they can be excellent, but those who did not grow up eating them chez grandmère often find them difficult to love. n We draw the line at another dish, also called poutine, which is French fries with cheese melted over them, topped with gravy. n Tourtière is a meat pie, that can, at its best, transcend all other forms of meat between crusts. Because we grew up with the best, made at home and served for breakfast, we may be snipey in our judgement of inferior examples, but it’s usually a tasty, if rich, combination of ground pork (sometimes with beef), potato, onion and spices (our Mémère uses allspice) baked in piecrust and served warm.

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